Safety and Hikes in the Fall Season

Max Patch in NC

There’s nothing better than a backpacking trip in the woods at the peak of leaf change. The air is crisp, the colors of the changing leaves brilliant, and the expectation is there for adventure and recreation. With that in mind, here are a few tips that will help your trip go smoother and more enjoyable. 

Changing Weather – Fall can be a time of changing weather patterns. From warm to cold, bright sunshine to rain, make sure you are prepared for your trip. Check the weather before you venture out. Make sure your sleeping bag is of an adequate rating and you have enough warm layers. Include a good hat. Check out this blog too for ways to stay warm when the temperatures dip and what to bring when it rains. Carry the food you will need with a day extra to spare, just in case. Bring maps and a guidebook for the area in which you will be hiking, and include a phone in case of trouble. Know the signs and symptoms of hypothermia.

Wear blaze orange

Bears and Wildlife – This is the time of year when wildlife is foraging for food to keep them during the long winter months. They tend to be more aggressive and are on the hunt for food. Make sure you are using bear-proof techniques to hang your food. The PCT method works well for bears accustomed to hiker food strung up the usual way. Check ahead of time to see if there are any bear warnings for the area where you plan to hike (such as in the Smokies that routinely closes shelters for bear activity. Shenandoah National Park also can close areas to camping). Consider a bear canister or an Ursack with an odor-proof liner like an Loksak Opsak. Check out the Bear facts of the Trail blog for tips on handling black bear encounters. Don't be afraid to be aggressive though if bears are sighted near the shelter and tenting areas. Shout, bang pots, throw rocks, bark loudly like a dog (which works very well. There are even apps for your phone!). Bears should NOT be there in those areas.

Leaves and Acorns – No one would think acorns and leaves can disrupt a trip. But wet leaves make the trail slippery which can cause injury. Piles of leaves can hide rocks and other impediments on the trail. Acorns rolling under your feet act like marbles to trip you up. Take extra care on the trail when encountering these minor obstacles to prevent ankle twists or other injuries. Sometimes fallen leaves and obscure the trail. Be sure to have a map with you and a compass also. 

Hunting season - Fall means hunters are out sharing the woods and trail. Wearing blaze orange is a must. Know the hunting regulations where you will be hiking. Watch for dogs that are assisting hunters and be sure your furry pal also wears blaze orange. 

Where are the colors at their peak? Check out the fall foliage map

Finally, some top fall hikes in different states -

In the Smokies
New York and New Jersey
New England
Washington State
Colorado
New Hampshire
CNN's take Includes Virginia

Don’t You Love Getting Trail Magic?

I did. 

Seeing those coolers, sitting by their lonesome, brimming with goodies just for a hard hiker like me.

But things have changed….

I have changed.

Why?

Because of this.

Bear wrecks a thru hiker tent. 2017.

And this.

I have seen gear damaged and hikers lose money by animals that have received food rewards in one form or another. Including my own tent that had nothing in it.

I have seen magic left and remnants scattered around the cooler and a half mile beyond, with cans thrown into the woods. I have seen food tied to trees, soda cans propped on the ground and cans pierced by bears’ teeth and a sign on a tree afterwards that says – Bears are active in these woods and have destroyed property.

I have seen folks think they are doing right with all the food feeds, especially down south in the early AT hiker season, but are instead contributing to a massive mentality issue currently affecting long distance hikers. The “I deserve it” mentality. The entitlement mentality. After all – “I am hiking the whole trail, I need it.” They expect people to do for them. They are of a higher class. And that mentality carries into towns and places with regulations, where ill behavior can run rampant and thankfulness and doing good to others instead of yourself is absent. Selfishness abounds. The yellow blazer class is also born with those not interested in hiking but hitchhiking from party to party or feed.  

I have worked now as a ridgerunner on the Appalachian Trail and seen a lot to turn me off to food magic. This past season I had a thru hiker actually ask me – “Hey where is the trail magic around here? I haven’t had food or drink in a long time.”

I was flabbergasted.

I say to him – “There are others ways of trail magic in these woods besides food and drink.”

A sunny sky.

A pretty flower.

A trail kept free of blowdowns by a maintainer. Or a shelter that keeps out rain.

A flowing spring that is not dry.

Encouragement to a weary hiker with a kind word.

Picking up trash along the way. Even some gum wrappers will do.

Offering a ride to a weary hiker. I’ve had some even invite me into their homes. Wow

Thanking a maintainer and offering to help.

(To the trail angels that helped me so much on my treks – who offered rides and their homes and a friendly smile and encouragement – thanks)

To those that leave trail magic unattended - with coolers and bags and boxes of food sitting at a road or by the trail -

PLEASE don’t. Stay with your offerings and give them out. Meet and greet. Then remove it all when you are done. But really, consider other ways of magic instead of food. There is so much food along the AT these days – it is like a carnival from one food stop to another. The wilderness is gone. 

Instead, do other things. 

And do it expecting no thanks or rewards. The thanks is the satisfaction that you helped others and the trail. 

Bear Facts of the Trail

Black Bear photo by wildsafebc.com

I photographed this bear in a tree in Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Bears can be a hot topic in the hiker forums. I have witnessed, unfortunately, a hiker's tent at a hut in Shenandoah National Park torn up by a bear because he kept minor things like toothpaste inside. It makes good sense to learn the facts when encountering these

Bear damage to a tent

animals in the woods.

Most bears are skiddish when encountered on the trail, but a mother with her cubs can and will attack to defend her young if she detects a threat. It's prudent, therefore, to know the basics of bear safety when out hiking. And it's wise also to be aware of their scent to let you know they are nearby. I was taught the scent of a bear from a hiker/former ranger, and she said it smells like a wet dog. Once you recognize a bear's scent, it will alert you to their presence and avoid surprise encounters.   

Below are some general bear safety tips taken from the Shenandoah National Park website. If you are out west in grizzly country, that's a more dangerous area, and bear spray, bear bells, and other protection are needed, as well as bear canisters in many places (such as Yosemite National park which requires it). Check your local areas for updates on aggressive bear activity.


Avoiding Bears While Hiking

• Stay alert to your surroundings and the presence of wildlife while hiking.
• Make your presence known by keeping the wind to your back (your scent will alert bears), if possible hike in groups, and make noise.
• When you spot a bear, stay 300 feet or more away and never linger or take photographs for long periods.
• Slowly back away and leave the area or take a detour. Making noise during your retreat is appropriate. Keep children close to the group. Do not turn your back on a bear. Do not make eye contact.
• Do not pursue and NEVER surround a bear. Give it room to escape.
• DO NOT run from a bear. Bears will pursue prey and flight is a signal to them to start pursuit.

Encountering a Black Bear

Heed warning signs

If an encounter occurs …

Remain calm and don’t run. Like dogs, bears will often chase fleeing animals. You can't outrun a bear. They have been clocked at speeds up to 35 mph! Climbing a tree is futile since black bears excel at climbing trees. Jaw popping by the bear is a signal to you that it is uncomfortable.
Let the bear know you are human. Talk to it in a normal voice and wave your arms. If a bear cannot tell what you are, it may come closer or stand on its hind legs to get a better look or smell. A standing bear is usually curious – not threatening.
Move away slowly, but don’t turn your back.
Avoid eye contact with the animal.  If the bear follows, stop and hold your ground. Black bears may approach at a measured pace and attack the human as prey. The calm appearance of the black bear may have lure some of their victims into a false sense of security.  If leaving the area is not an option or if the bear gets too close you should make yourself appear as large as possible. Lifting your arms and a pack over head, moving to higher ground or, if in a group, huddling together will help discourage the bear. Make louder noise by banging pots and pans or using other noisemakers, but never imitate bear sounds or make a high-pitched squeal. If need be, throw rocks. A black bear calmly and steadily approaching who is not bothered by yelling or thrown objects should be considered extremely dangerous.

If a bear charges…

Don’t run! Bears often make bluff charges, sometimes to within 10 feet of their adversary, without making contact. Usually if you hold your ground they will back off.

If a bear actually makes contact…

Fight back! In rare instances black bears perceive humans as prey – if you are attacked by a black bear fight back. Try to focus your attack on the bear’s eyes and nose.
Carry bear spray and know how to use it.

In camp...

Eat away from your sleeping area. Never store food or any kind of smellables including sunscreen, chapstick or toothpaste in a tent or vestibule. If available, use the bear boxes, poles or cables provided. Use bear poles or bear cables or hoist your food in a tree ten feet off the ground and four feet out in a bear bag. Better yet, learn the PCT method of hanging food.  Cookware and trash should be similarly secured as well as anything scented such as toothpaste, toothbrush, medications, bug repellent, soap, etc.

In some places where bears are known to be aggressive on the Appalachian Trail such as in Georgia our southwestern Virginia, carry a bear canister to store your food. Canisters are also required in the Adirondack region of New York State and in several places along the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). A Ursack may be used but also use an odorproof barrier with it.

Caring for the Wilderness

I have just completed my third season as the ridgerunner for Shenandoah National Park. Inevitably I

encounter hikers who ask me then – what is a ridgerunner?

Basically I hike the Appalachian Trail within the park boundary (some 100 miles worth), greeting hikers (I greeted over 500 thru hikers – those hiking the entire AT in one year – this season), serving as a roving information board, checking trail conditions and inspecting the huts (or shelters) where hikers stay. As this is my third year in the park and I have done all the trails within the park on the off season, I am fairly well able to handle the different questions hikers have, which are many. It’s my job to try and know all I can.

The role of a ridgerunner is also important to both the trail maintainers and the National Park Service. I serve as their eyes and ears. I work closely with each agency partner. I let them know when there are issues that need to be dealt with.

For instance, I let them know about garbage issues in the park that can lead to wildlife encounters.

This garbage was left in the same area where the bear attacked. PACK IT OUT

 I tell maintainers about unsightly graffiti inside huts or other things that need taken care of.

Graffiti of any kind in a shelter is not only unsightly but also criminal

  

And I let maintainers know where the big blowdowns are on the trail.

This season was not without incident for me, however. While camped at Pass Mountain Hut a few short weeks ago, a young bear inexplicably attacked my completely empty tent. The bear broke a pole and did some other damage. 

The park then came to inspect and try to ensnare the bear. Earlier that day I had found half eaten food inside the privy area. Adequate food storage and carrying out ALL trash (including not leaving any trash in the fire pit) helps alleviate a bear’s interest in humans and food. As well as chasing away any bears that are spotted near these structures or places where hikers are camping. My role in being an educator in Leave No Trace principles helps protect both the hiker and the park.

Of course I also enjoyed a nice view. 

Who can’t help but enjoy a place of immense beauty and natural wonder? I help the hiker have an enjoyable time outdoors while helping maintain and protect a park busy with the many visitors that come seeking fellowship with the wilderness that Shenandoah provides.  

Running Jersey Ridges - Guest Blog on the Life of an AT Ridgerunner Part 2

Second half of the blog post from Jerry "Grasshopper" Adams on the day in the life of  New Jersey ridgerunner.

Sunfish Pond

My shift at the Backpacker campsite was ending but I was staying in the woods, working my way north to hike the 73 miles of AT in Jersey from the Delaware River in Pennsylvania to the New York border.

I move north, hoping to see a bear.  The other Jersey ridgerunners have seen 40 bears between them and I am miffed at not having seen a single one this summer – or on my hike through here last year. My dismay was fueled by the glee of other hikers who delighted in sharing their daily sightings – “I saw a Mama Bear and three cubs this morning. Awesome.”

The Trail crosses the state line at the Delaware River and gently climbs 1200 feet and then follows the Kittatinnies, a panorama of lakes and farmlands unfolding across Pennsylvania to the west and Jersey to the east. Crossing Raccoon Ridge and Rattlesnake Mountain, the trail is rocky, but it gradually smooths and then flattens as it moves north.

The old man with a face filled with bushy white whiskers was standing in the middle of the trail watching me approach from the south. “Howdy, Pilgrim,” I shout! “With that beard, I am guessing you are a thru-hiker.”

“I’m Birdman. Who are you,” came the reply in a drawl so slow I thought I was back home in South Carolina instead of headed north across New Jersey.

“I’m Grasshopper. I am a ridgerunner.”

“What’s that?”

Birdman is from Tennessee, retired from a lifetime of quarry work and is thru-hiking to Maine. At 65, he’s four years older than me. We stop for lunch at Mohican Outdoor Center and I explain myself, making a new friend and gaining a hiking partner for the week.  We walk on together and then I keep going when he takes a mid-afternoon break; I figure we’ll see each other up the trail.

Birdman rolls in late, joining me at a primitive campsite just north of a pond near Millbrook-Blairstown Road, and the next day we cover 12 miles and stay the night at Brink Road Shelter with three camp groups, six northbound thru-hikers and four hikers headed to Georgia.

I make my rounds, checking in with the counselors and scanning the wide-eyed stares of youngsters who are unplugged and facing woodlands isolation and solitude, perhaps for the first time.

Ever the trail ambassador, I prepare hikers for the perils ahead, including Joe to Go in Branchville, where the trail crosses Highway 206 at Culver Gap.  This is both a prime spot for breakfast and a source of great angst to outdoor types who slip from the solitude of the woods unprepared for the urban crankiness of a man who earned his reputation for being unfriendly to hikers.

“He’s a nice guy, but he does things his way.  Just order your food and keep in simple,” I advise. “It’s cash only and don’t even think about asking to charge your phone or to use the bathroom.”

A camper who passed by Gren Anderson Shelter is telling others to leave their trash in the bear box, a weird twist on Leave No Trace, and I only grouse a little before packing out someone’s leftovers. A northbound thru-hiker is carrying a six-pack of beer and he finishes two at the shelter, smashing his empties and then packing them away. I caution him about alcohol on the trail; he smiles, shrugs, and hikes on, opening a can as he goes.

A woman in sandals struggles up Sunrise Mountain with a large pack.  With a thick Eastern European accent, Mary says she is on the second day of a hike across New Jersey. She complains that her feet hurt after 24 miles the day before. “Why so far?” I ask. “I only have four days,” she replies.

Good luck with that.

Mary pulled up lame the next day at High Point State Park and needed a ride to the train in Port Jervis. My truck was nearby and I considered taking her to the train, but thought that idea promised trouble so I helped her call a cab and then headed north with a clear conscience.

Monument at High Point State Park

At 1700-feet, High Point is the highest spot in New Jersey and the trail then drops to the valley and cuts southeast along the New York border, across farms and through fields and forests, board walks, pasturelands and along country roads.  I cover seven miles in a steady rain, take a late morning break to dry off at the Jim Murray shelter and then stop for lunch in Unionville at Horler’s Store.

The trail passes near ridgerunner summer housing at the wildlife refuge, so I stop for a hot shower and a night’s respite from the rain. Up and over Pochuck Mountain the next morning, I take a mandatory ice cream break at the Heaven Hill Farms store and then climb the Stairway to Heaven and cross Wawayanda and stay the night near the shelter as my hike across Jersey winds down.

The New York line is four miles north and I plan to flip at the border and hike back to Wawayanda for a shuttle ride back to my truck, but then I meet Fred Schneider, a volunteer trail maintainer, and decide to hike down the State Line Trail with him. Lost in my reverie and feeling sassy about finishing my walk across Jersey, I stumble and land hard, snapping a trekking pole, bruising my bottom, blackening an eye, and spraining my hand.

The pain and indignity fade as we make it down the mountain and reach Fred’s car at the Greenwood Lake trailhead. He ferries me toward Warwick for something cold at The Creamery, an oasis where the AT crosses US 17A.  The chocolate shake is a taste of heaven.

Limping but refreshed, I catch a ride to a hiker hostel in Vernon where a park worker from Wawayanda shuttles me back to High Point and my truck.  I meet Birdman and three other northbounders for breakfast the next morning, picking up the tab as Trail Magic and then shuttle the four of them back to the trail and the hike up Wawayanda Mountain that will start their day.

August melted into September, and Labor Day ended my ridgerunner summer. I camped near the High Point Shelter my last night out and then hiked 12 miles back to the house at the wildlife refuge to pack up for the long drive south.  I was barely a half mile down the trail when I saw a bear cub scamper ahead and disappear into the trees.  My ridgerunning ended with my summer’s only bear.

Birdman and I are planning to hike together to Trail Days in Damascus, VA in the spring and then he’s going to New Hampshire to finish his hike to Katahdin.   Me? I’m hoping for a return to Jersey and for more ridges to run.

Part One