Wishing you a very Merry Christmas

Greeted with snow that morning in the Smokies

Long ago, when I was section hiking the Appalachian Trail in what I thought was a snow-safe month of late March, 2014 (is any month snow-or-storm-safe when in the Great Smoky Mountains? I should know better!) - I trudged through foot-tall drifts of snow along with bitter cold temps. It was difficult to hike in but beautiful all the same. Back then, all I could think of was how much it looked like Christmas. 

Snowy footprints to follow

So enjoy some photos of that time with our wish here at Blissful Hiking that you have a wonderful Christmas- snow or no snow!

My humble abode in the snow

On the way to Clingman's Dome, highest point on the AT. March 2014

On Clingman's Dome

The sun sets at the Mt Collins Shelter

Observations of a Two Week Appalachian Trail Hike – Stecoah Gap to Spivey Gap

I did the first of the series last spring where I covered Amicalola Falls State Park to Stecoah Gap, and my observations had to do with other hikers.

The start at Stecoah Gap. Harmless hiking...for now.

This time around, the observations really had to do with me. You see, I had to endure weather conditions I’ve never faced or faced in limited quantities during my spring hike this year from March 23 - April 5th . I am no winter hiker. I have never been out in anything less than 15 degrees, nor am I much on snow hiking. I did a 17 mile snow hike in Shenandoah National Park this past winter, and I must say, that hike really got me ready for what was in store during this time.

1.       Winter Camping – I broke my all-time camping temps at nine degrees at Derrick Knob shelter in the Great Smoky Mountains. When I arrived at 4 PM, the shelter was packed. Fresh snow lay on the ground with more falling. I had not ever been camping when snow was falling. Nevertheless I dug out a spot and erected my tent in a blustery wind that dropped the wind chill to below zero.

My tent set up at Derrick Knob Shelter

I put on every stitch of clothing I had and used a silk liner inside my humble 15 degree bag along with a hand warmer. I managed to stay mostly warm. What I didn’t count on was the water bottles freezing solid, including ice plugs on the top. My trail shoes froze solid (and they can take forever to get back on!). And my stove was inoperable. I learned to warm up the bottles to get a bit of water and warm up the canister, but only on the advice of other hikers. Which leads to #2

2.       Hikers helping Hikers – I was given good advice on winter camping from hikers who knew what to do. One hiker told me to carry my canister in my pocket as I got ready for camp so it would light. When I arrived at a shelter later that day, another hiker had water there from a spring so I could fill up (I’d had nothing to drink for six miles because the bottles were still frozen solid). He also went and got me fresh water as well. When I found out my lighter would not work, a fellow hiker offered me her spare pack of matches (I should have thought to bring matches as a backup).

Rescued at Newfound Gap by a fellow hiker

Another hiker picked me up at Newfound Gap and took me to Cherokee to warm up, resupply etc., all on her dime. And a fellow hiker offered the idea of getting to town to dry out after a very wet two day slog through the final days in the Smokies, and only after he helped give me advice on how to negotiate the solid ice on the trail that came from melting and refreezing of the snow that had fallen. It was also my longest hiking day at over 18 miles.

3.       Winter Trail Conditions in Springtime – There were winter conditions I have never really experienced backpacking. Like rhododendron full of snow, and when you pass through, they dump snow over you.

Going under the rhodo on the trail made for tough travel

Snow from high above in trees falling like snow bombs on top of you. Then the trail turning to a slushy mess when it began to melt. My feet were soaked and slipped and slid much more even than ice. It made for a very slow, cumbersome travel. What should have been easy hiking turned into a major ordeal.

Now it's all slush, and 2-3 inches worth of it. 

And so too my “schedule” had to change. I did not camp where planned but camped where I needed to. I still was able to make certain rendezvous with family, but had to constantly rearrange plans. So it is with the trail and weather where best laid plans are but aside, and you work out each day as it comes.

But it all passes and great views abound. On Big Bald.

Yes, this was a time for personal observations of what I endured. You never know what a section hike on the AT will bring, and this was certainly a two week adventure I will never forget.


Related Blog:

Observation of a Two Week Appalachian Trail Start

Day Hiking in Winter

A Classic Hike in the Great Smoky Mountains - Mt. LeConte

I read all kinds of rave reviews about this "spectacular" mountain while hiking the Appalachian Trail in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. While I did not take a day detour to this peak on that particular wander, I did decide to climb it while in the area last week.



I decided to take the popular Alum Cave Trail to the peak on a fine November day. It starts approx 8 miles south of the Sugarlands Visitor Center along the Newfound Gap Road. You can't miss the large parking lot with toilets on the left. A short side trail leads you to the main trailhead for the Alum Cave Trail.

Trail length roundtrip: 11 miles

Destination: Mt LeConte at 6,593 feet.

The trail follows a bubbling stream for approx .8 mile with nice bridges crossing it.

There are many unique and scenic areas along the trail. At 1.3 mile is the arch rock formation in which the trail meanders through in a unique set of steps set beneath the rock.

The trail veers away from the stream and continues to climb, at times via constructed steps, cables over wet and slick rocky areas and other aids help the traverse. This would be a tricky ascent if these areas were iced over. The next feature at 2.2 miles is the Alum Cave itself where the trail meanders beneath a huge rocky outcropping.








The trail hugs a narrow ledge in some areas that open to wide views as you gradually ascend.

Near the summit you will pass the LeConte Lodge where guests can spend the night in rustic dwellings and enjoy meals in the dining room.

Of course the summit of Mt LeConte is beautiful with different trails to explore. I took the trail near the lodge to the cliffs, approx 0.2 uphill to scenic views of the surrounding mountains amid scrub brush. 

Atop Mt LeConte at the cliffs

There are other trails leading to Mt LeConte, but the Alum Cave trail offers geological wonders and great views for a unique hiking experience. 

Related Blogs - other Trails

The Tuscarora Trail

The Dolly Sods

Trail Adventures in Colorado - Sangre de Cristo

Trail Adventures in Colorado - Yellowstone

Book Release Party Day 5 - What are Friends For?

Day 4 of the Book Release Party for Mountains, Madness, and Miracles celebrates friendships. The Appalachian Trail brings together a closeknit circle of friends unlike any other community. No matter your background or where you come from, when you are out on the trail, you are one hiking together. You are there enjoying the triumphs and the hardships, sharing about gear, the trail, and the next meal. And you develop friendships that last way beyond the hike itself.

Hikernutt and I were reunited on the trail in Maryland where I worked as a ridgerunner

Today's special guest is an interview with one of my close friends I met because of the Appalachian Trail. Her trail name is "Hikernutt."  Without her friendship in the Smokies, I doubt very much I would have lasted. You see, I was ready to quit when I ran into her. She kept me going with encouraging words and a smile you will never forget. I talk about her in my book, but now, find out more about this great hiker and friend of the trail.

Tell us a bit about yourself.

I am 47 years old and love to hike.  My husband and I started hiking back in 2000. We went out for a four day trip, met lots of great hikers that we are still in touch with today and we have been hooked on hiking ever since. We spent every weekend and week long vacations on the AT. In 2000 we made it to Fontana and then in 2001 we picked back up at Fontana and every weekend and week long vacation we could fit in we were on the trail and finally made it Damascus VA where we ended our hike together. We would get out ever weekend and hike somewhere. Then in 2007 I decided to leave my job of 18 years and try to do a thru Hike on the AT. I had met Blissful when we were starting through the Smokey Mountains. I was so scared heading into the Smokies and I don't know why, I had been through the Smokies several times but this was different for some reason. Then on the first night I met Blissful and we sat and talked and all my fears went away. It was so great meeting her.  

Why did you decide to hike the Appalachian Trail?

My husband and I hiked it together in 2000 and 2001 and I feel in love with the beauty and magic and peace the Appalachian Trail brings to me.  I can be in such a bad mood or down in the dumps and go for a hike and within 15 minutes I feel so much better, even on the worst days on the AT. 

How did you meet Blissful and Paul Bunyan?

Hikernutt and I at Newfound Gap in the Smokies

I was starting to enter the Smokey Mountains and was scared, I was stopped for a break and here came Blissful and Paul Bunyan.  We managed to stay at the same shelters every night and hike together most of the time during the day. If it had not been for meeting Blissful and Paul Bunyan I probably would not have made it through the Smokies.  

  

Thinking back on your trail experiences so far, what have been the highlights for you?

Meeting all the great people and learning so much about myself, learning that I can take care of myself.

For those thinking of the hiking the Appalachian Trail, what are two things you recommend?

Always listen to your body, and don't get in a hurry. The mountains are not going anywhere.

What is your favorite piece of hiking gear?

My Mountain Hardware -15 degree sleeping.

If you had to describe yourself in one word, what would it be?

Happy

On Charlies Bunion, in the Smokies

To Order Mountains, Madness, and Miracles  - 4000 Miles along the Appalachian Trail

In Print - Amazon and Barnes and Noble

E-book - Kindle  or  Nook

Guest Blog - Top Hiking Spots in the Great Smoky Mountains

Top Spots for Hikers to Check Out 

in The Great Smoky Mountains

The Great Smoky Mountains have many wonderful areas to hike and depending on the season, you’ll want to hike in specific spots. The fall is perhaps one of the most beautiful times of year to pull out your hiking gear and go explore the mountains.

Certain factors throughout the year can affect just how spectacular the foliage will be come fall; luckily the area was quite dry and in a state of drought for the summer so that means the leaves will do a particularly impressive change of shades this year.  The time of fall you plan to hike will also impact the areas that you should choose to hike in.

The early fall will be the best time to visit high elevation locations like Andrew’s Bald, Mt. LeConte, The Jump Off and Rocky Top. Andrew’s Bald has some incredible views but can be significantly cooler – by as much as ten to twenty degrees because of its elevation. If you are planning to hike Andrew’s Bald, the parking area is shared with Clingman’s Dome (the highest point on the range) and you should consider waterproof footwear and a walking stick to migrate the rough and often wet trail.

Similarly, mid fall or the majority of October is another time you want to focus on higher elevation spots.  The reasoning behind this is that the foliage turns sooner at higher elevations so you essentially should start high and work your way down lower as the season progresses. Great mid-fall locations to hike are Gregory Bald, Mt. Cammerer and Spence Field. Spence field can be reached by going right on the Bote Mountain trail from the Anthony Creek Trail, a little over five miles on the Bote Mountain Trail should bring you to the Appalachian Trail and Spence Field junction.  The attraction to the field as a sight-seeing spot is that you can view the North Carolina side of the mountains if it’s clear and during early summer the laurel is in full bloom, which is positively breath-taking.

Late fall or most of the month of November will be best utilized at the lower elevation areas like Miegs Mountain Trail, Deep Creek Loop or Indian Creek Trail.  These are by no means all your options but definitely some of the top ones to take into consideration. Mid-October through November are when the leaves are at their most vibrant and brilliant at lower elevations but the earlier fall period is still a great time to hike the Smokies and enjoy the mild weather. The Indian Creek Trail is a great, easy trail for the hiker that isn’t looking for too much of a challenge.  The wonderful bonus of this leisurely trail is that it accesses two different falls; both the Tom Branch Falls and Indian Creek Falls are at your fingertips on this route.  If you’re not up for walking it you can bring a sturdy bike for this section of the trail. Entering the water is not recommended and pets are prohibited.

No matter where or when you plan to hike, keep some basic safety rules in mind:

·        Always let someone know where you are going and what time you expect to be back. Know your limitations. Carry a map for the area where you plan to hike.

·           Keep a small first aid kit handy.  A pocket size one will do. 

·        If you have severe allergies, especially to bees, be sure to carry an Epi pen.  If you have never suffered an insect bite and do not know if you have allergies, carry an antihistamine such as Benadryl (make sure to carry child size doses if hiking with children)

·         Respect nature.  Do not litter.  Take only photos and do not encourage contact with wildlife. Remember, dogs are not allowed on the trails in the Great Smoky Mountains. 

Hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains is an unforgettable experience.  Make sure doing so is on your bucket list. 

Guest Author: Elk Springs Resort 1088 Powdermill Road Gatlinburg, TN 37738 | 865-233-2390 | Enjoy privacy and mountain views while relaxing on your vacation in one of our secluded luxury cabins located in a private 68 acre resort setting. We're nestled in the historic Arts and Crafts Community and border the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

Sister to the Appalachian Trail - the Benton MacKaye Trail, Part 1

Looking for solitude and a wilderness experience? Try this!

Hi folks,

My name is Ernest Engman, though my "trail name" is SGT Rock. I write the Benton MacKaye Trail (BMT) Thru-Hikers Guide and I’ve been working on the BMT or hiking it since 2005. Blissful has asked me to write a little about the BMT.  

Author and family

First thing – when you say MacKaye, it should rhyme with sky. I said it wrong myself for years.

History

A little look back in history: When Benton MacKaye first came up with the idea for the Appalachian Trail (AT), his sketch included feeder trails that would bring people from around the region into the main artery of the AT. The trail was completed in 1937 and for many years, it made use of already established local trails to provide the network of feeder trails.

 In 1979, a group of GATC members recognized that the AT was starting to see higher traffic and an alternative needed to be created for hikers seeking more solitude in their trail experience – if only they could see what would become of the trail! The number of thru-hikers completing the Appalachian Trail in 1979 was 129; by 1999 the number was nearly 4 times as many. It is estimated that nearly 3,000 hikers attempt a thru-hike every year, and that doesn’t include day hikers or section hikers. To this end they formed the Benton MacKaye Trail Association (BMTA) to construct a path that would give AT hikers an alternate way to travel from Springer Mountain and meet back up again with the AT. A link was sketched out. In 1980, construction started. The first part of the Benton MacKaye Trail from Springer Mountain in Georgia to the Ocoee River in Tennessee was finished fairly quickly. But due to changes in red tape, the remainder of the trail was not completed until 2005. Most of that was by adopting existing trails into the system. Now finished it is nearly 300 miles long, so to make the term easy to remember from year to year, someone who finishes the BMT is considered a 300 miler.

Wilder experience, more solitude

The BMT was designed to intentionally be an alternative to the Appalachian Trail and to also be different. Because of that, the BMT has different maintenance standards of width of trail maintained and an intentional avoidance of extra trail structures. For instance there are only two shelters on the entire length of the trail. One is in Georgia, near the town of Cherry Log, where the BMT crosses private land for 8.6 miles. In order for BMT hikers to have some place to camp in this long stretch of road walks and private land, a shelter was built. The other shelter is in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (GSMNP) and was built by the CCC in the 1930’s. It is one of the more remote structures in the park.

The trail also skirts one wilderness area, passes through five others, and ends in GSMNP which is managed as a wilderness area. Many of these areas are unblazed due to their wilderness management. Signs are kept to a minimum, and some water crossings that would have bridges on other trails are left as fords.

 

The end result is a wilder, more remote feeling than on the AT, and less hikers overall. I’ve experienced it, and other hikers have told me that one can go for days and never see another human being while walking the BMT. 

Navigation

I’m often asked is the BMT as easy to navigate as the AT? The answer is, absolutely not. That said, it is also not hard as long as you bring the right stuff. The trail in some sections is blazed and is plain and easy to follow as a hiker could wish. But in wilderness areas the BMTA is not allowed to blaze and signs are placed on existing sign posts only. A hiker that does not carry maps will certainly have a hard time navigating their way along the entire length of the BMT (maps 777 and 781 put out by National Geographic and a map of the Smokies). A compass is also helpful. I also recommend that anyone attempting the BMT carry some sort of guidebook that will show the other trail names that the section of the BMT might be using. The BMTA has divided the BMT into three general sections: Georgia, Tennessee/North Carolina, and Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The club produces a data book that covers the mileages for all three sections, and have section guidebooks for two of the three sections: Georgia and Tennessee/North Carolina. They should have the third guidebook finished in 2012 to complete the set.

In addition to those, I write a guidebook that has all the information one would need for long distance hiking on the BMT including town data for re-supply and other essential  functions. It is laid out in a format similar to The AT Guide by David “Awol” Miller. My guide is available here.






(Go to Part 2 on this unique trail by Sgt Rock)