The Wonders of Hiking and Exploring our National Parks

Blissful Hiking Adventures Podcast Show Notes - Episode 3

The Wonders of Hiking and Exploring our National Parks

Backpacking Yellowstone in the Shoshone Geyser Basin

The national parks are the people's parks - created to protect the wide diversity of scenic beauty, flora and fauna as well as preserving these unique splendors for generations to enjoy. Established in the 1800's with the creation of Yellowstone National Park in Montana, the parks yield a great playground of opportunity for the outdoor enthusiast. From the volcanoes of Hawaii to lofty mountains of Denali and Rainier to the Everglades of Florida and the rocky seashore of Acadia in Maine, the parks offer a wide variety of opportunities in exploration and enjoyment. 

I grew up with yearly family adventures to our national parks like Glacier in Montana and Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, extending that enjoyment to my adult years where I spent part of our honeymoon watching lava flow into the ocean at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and later on, working along the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park as a ridgerunner.

Before you venture to the parks, check out the official park website and their Things to Do section that offers park highlights. Once at the park, head to the visitor center where friendly rangers and park volunteers can help you decide on the best adventure in the time you have. 

Mt Rainier

Some of my favorites include

Yosemite

Yellowstone

The Giant Sequoias of California

Great Sand Dunes in Colorado

Mt Rainier of Washington State

Glacier in Montana

Arches and Bryce Canyon in Utah

Acadia of Maine

Shenandoah in Virginia

If you plan to venture into the backcountry of a national park for hiking and camping, check out the park's regulations. Most parks require a backcountry permit. In some the permits are free, in others a fee is required. Some parks require you to watch a safety video. Some parks require that you reserve a specific camp area or site. Check out also on bear proof technique for your food in each park as some have different regulations. And be sure you have the appropriate gear and footwear for the terrain and seasons in which you are hiking and camping. 

Exploring Bryce Canyon, Utah

With a bit of planning the national parks offer a wide variety of fun and exciting opportunities to enjoy the splendor of these unique places in the United States. 

Check out Blissful Hiking Adventures to listen to this and other episodes on our podcast and the Hiking Adventure Series on our National Scenic Trails in print and e-book!

On Lassen Peak!

Explore Some Wilderness in Shenandoah National Park!

It seems like all the backpackers head for the Appalachian Trail in Shenandoah National Park. While the AT offers some great seasonal hiking, don't forget Shenandoah's awesome side trails like the Big Run area in the southern part of the park. Whether out for a day wander or a multi day backpack trip using the many trails available to create your own hikes, The Big Run Wilderness offers some great hiking, pristine wilderness, and wildlife.

A Great Day Hike or Two Day Backpack Trip - Rockytop Trail and Big Run Portal Trail Circuit Hike. 
14.2 to 14.6 miles. PATC Map 11 Shenandoah National Park, South

Fall Views along the Rockytop Trail

Starting at Browns Gap on the Skyline Drive (milepost 83), this circuit hike uses the Appalachian Trail, Rockytop Trail, Big Run Portal Trail, and the Big Run Loop Trail for the return. You can then take the AT back or make it a true circuit by using the Madison Run Link to Madison Run Fire Road for a 14.2 mile day hike. Or hike along Rockytop to the Big Run and take advantage of several nice campsites once you reach the river area. You will see several on the right side of the trail as after you cross the metal bridge along the Big Run Portal Trail.

The Rockytop Trail is indeed just as it says, rocky in many places, though none of the trail is steep. In early August this trail goes by some magnificent blueberry bushes for great berry picking. But the bears like it too, so be sure to keep an eye out for them on the trail in late summer. There are plenty of places along the ridge for fine views of the Shenandoah Valley.

Rocky footing along the Rockytop Trail. May see snakes in warm weather.

Once you descend off Rockytop, the trail ends at the Big Run Portal Trail. This trail runs alongside Big Run, a large trout stream. Depending on the time of year, you can rock hop at the water crossings you will find (and there are around six of them). But in high water, you will need wading shoes. I find traditional Crocs work well, and the trail is flat enough that you could hike in your crocs to each water crossing until you get past the turn-off for the Patterson Ridge Trail.

Big Run in the Big Run Wilderness

Big Run is a beautiful stream and well worth some time if you wish to do some backpacking. Again bears have been sighted, so be sure to use bear proof technique with your food.

Once you reach the Big Run Link Trail, you can can complete the circuit by a modest hike of long switchbacks to return to the ridge. From there you can take the Rockytop Trail back to the AT and your car or use the Madison Run spur trail (directly across) to the fire road and return to your car that way. It is slightly shorter to go this way.

I have done this hike multiple times using the many trails in the system and rarely see anyone. So if getting out on your own and away from crowds for wilderness adventure is your style, check out the Big Run area.

Alternate Summer Trail Adventure - Part 1 - Sangre de Cristo Wilderness in Colorado

The Sand Ramp Trail wanders from Great Sand Dunes to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains

As I mentioned in my previous blogs, we saw our plans to tackle both the John Muir Trail or the Long Trail scuttled due to health concerns. But we both still liked to backpack and wanted a one to two day adventure during our trip out west this summer. A fellow hiker, Mags with ultralight backpacking, told us of the beautiful and quite underpopulated via hiking standards Sangre de Cristo mountains in southern Colorado. I did some research and decided this might prove a good little trip for us.

But like all trips, they also hold elements of the unexpected. We arrived at the visitor center to inquire about our plans. Mags had told me of the Sand Lakes region, but because of severe drought, the sand was incredibly thick and unpassable for most vehicles. We were unable to reach the normal trailhead and to do the extra miles to get there would be too much for us.  So we looked at an alternate destination and settled on an alpine lake, Medano Lake, nestled beside Mount Herard. I saw pictures of it and thought it looked beautiful. We could take the Sand Ramp trail from Great Sand Dunes National Park out to a forest service road, hike along the road, through seven water crossings, to the trailhead for the lake and camp in its vicinity at a designated campsite - though the ranger told of campsites along the forest service road should we fall short of our goal.

Papa Bliss slogs through the thick sand and no shade

We started at a pretty good time of day - early morning to avoid heat issues, but the trail was all sand and thick sand that rapidly filled our shoes and slowed us to where we had to empty our shoes numerous times. There was little shade either on the Sand Ramp trail, and as our hike continued to slow, the day heated up. I was getting my first taste of true desert hiking with heat, sand and prickly pear cactus, something I had never experienced before. I had hoped to maybe camp at the alpine lake region that night, but it was not to be. Our best hope was to hike as far as we could when we reached the forest service road and get as close to the trailhead for Medano Lake as possible.

Multiple uses for a bear box - a cooking table and a seat combined

Our campsite just before the Medano Trailhead; Papa Bliss hammocks, I tent

Plodding along the road, and over many water crossings, we finally arrived at this pristine campsite just a tenth of a mile shy of the Medano trailhead. We felt satisfied with our 11 mile day, and at an elevation we are not used to. We had a nice time relaxing and glad to have a safe place to store our supplies in the metal bear box, though we saw no bears on the journey.

The trail toward Mt Herard and Medano Lake

 The next morning we were up early to begin our journey to Medano Lake. The trail was not very difficult, a few steep stretches, but as we ascended past 11,000 feet, the altitude was clearly affecting us. I found myself huffing and puffing unnaturally, which was strange, like I couldn't catch my breath. But the scenery was lovely, and we soon arrived to a beautiful lake, quiet scenery and not a soul in sight.

Made it to what snow existed in this region which did not get the snow pack found in northern Colorado

Our goal is reached! Medano Lake, resting at the foot of Mount Herard!

On the way down the mountain, Papa Bliss has quite severe back pain. We had all but decided we would need another overnight on the forest service road as to do a 16 mile day would not be wise. But once on the road hiking back, we ran into a rescue guy out for some four wheeling who was able to take us back a good part of the way down the road. Then a ranger carried us the rest of the way to our car over very thick sandy roads where he almost got stuck.

So a grand adventure in many ways, and my first time overnight backpacking out west.

Part 2 - Our adventure into the backcountry of Yellowstone to our own geyser area!

Not the Goal, The Journey

Everyone has their reasons for hiking. I go for relaxation. To accomplish a goal. To ready myself for that next BIG long distance hike in my future plans. These were all on my mind as I ventured out today on my weekly hike (I have been trying to go hiking up in Shenandoah National Park weekly to prepare myself for my upcoming hikes this April and July). Today I started out near Skyland, heading down some fire road until I hit Corbin Mountain Trail. I did a circuit hike to Nicholson Hollow Trail, past Corbin Cabin where I was hailed by those renting the cabin for a few days (I think they were lonely). And then back up to the Skyline Drive where I joined the AT toward Stony Man Mtn. By this time I was hurting as I had gone 12 miles. My head was killing me. But I decided I might as well go ahead and climb Stony Man for a quick view. And I saw the most amazing sight - of sunlight streaming through the clouds over the valley. Now to me, it looked like heaven. I felt a peace I hadn't in a long time. And tears, too, for its awesome splendor. And a sense that it was okay to be out hiking and enjoying this. To not get all uptight over my life right now. To believe God is there and to walk the walk before me and see what happens.

I hope you get to do some major contemplation as I do while out hiking. And discover the hike is really not about the goal, but about the journey. And always will be.

Southbound vs Northbound Part 1 The Beginning...

Beginning the AT Southbound, via the Abol Slide Trail, at Baxter State Park, Maine 2010

Welcome to a series of blogs on Southbound (SOBO) vs Northbound (NOBO) Appalachian Trail hikes. Since I have done both, I felt it a good idea to share some thoughts about each area that I hiked, as well as gear selections, food, prep, the trail itself, etc. It is hoped this will help interested hikers make informed decisions with regards to planning a southbound vs northbound attempt and ensure an adventuresome and exciting experience.

Whether ending or finishing, Katahdin in Baxter State Park in Maine is king of the Appalachian Trail. And it acts like one. It makes its own rules, has its own weather patterns, is unpredictable but yet grand. The rules in Baxter State Park can be confusing for both NOBO and SOBO hikers. For the hiker starting their grand adventure at this peak, there are a few rules one must follow. Baxter does have a backpacker's campsite (the Birches), but it is reserved ONLY for hikers who have completed at least the 100 mile wilderness. And normal SOBO hikers don't fall into that category. So the SOBO hiker must reserve a campsite at Katahdin Stream before and after their summit hike.

I found the reservation process quite smooth and without any hitches. Although they recommend reserving your campsite far in advance, I noticed plenty of sites still available only a few short weeks before my July 1st start (and near the big July 4th holiday, which was surprising). Not to say you shouldn't plan early, as you should. But it is not that arduous a process. You mail in your required forms, and they promptly issue a return form in the mail with the reservation set. Make sure you have this form on your person when you enter the park as they will check it at the entrance station and again at your campsite. Here is a link to Baxter State Park for all its rules and the reservation process. You can also check availability of sites. I used a walk-in site at Katahdin Stream myself, but they also have lean-tos. Also, new for 2014, they have extended their campsie season,including the Birches, for all you late comers.

We found it a more interesting experience taking a different trail up to the peak instead of hiking the Hunt Trail (which is the official AT route) both up and down. We took the Abol Slide Trail up (you need to get a short hitch from Katahdin Stream campsite to this trailhead) and came down the Hunt Trail (located right at Katahdin Stream). (Update NOTE- Abol Slide Trail Will be closed for 2014 season!) It cannot be overemphasized that for a hiker not in condition (which SOBOs are not, let's face it) this is a very difficult day. We had weather too on the mountain with fierce wind and sleet pellets. It took us a total of 10 hours to make the circuit hike (yes, that was a long time for us). But allow yourself plenty of time for the hike. Get out early. Be sure to have cold weather gear even in July, including rain gear, in your day pack (unless it is perfectly clear out. Though we had clear weather at the bottom, but Katahdin had its own cloud at top. Weather blows in fast). You will be very tired after this hike, even carrying a daypack (which you can pick up at the ranger station the night before. Get yours early as some of the condition of the daypacks leave much to be desired). You will likely be pretty sore also. So take it easy for a few days afterwards as you head south until your muscles have a chance to recover and heal. Before you leave Katahdin Stream, the rangers allow you to leave your garbage at the ranger station. They really are hiker friendly in the park. The next day we did 10 miles through Baxter State Park and stayed at the paid campsite at Abol Bridge and glad we did. They are hiker friendly there also and had nice sites they hold for backpackers. With showers, a campstore, and a pretty pond, it made for a nice beginning. Take it easy for a few days after that. Soon your muscles will feel better.

Our start at the Approach Trail at Amicalola Falls State Park, March 5, 2007

A return in 2013.

For those starting their trek NOBO at Amicalola Falls State Park, there also needs to be some planning. But there are no backpacking reservations to be had. There is a free shelter right behind the visitor center at the state park where you can stay before starting your hike up the Approach Trail (which, by the way is not the AT but a trail that goes roughly nine miles to the start of the AT on Springer Mountain). Many hikers also choose to stay at the Hiker Hostel run by Josh and Leigh Saint. They offer thru hiker rates, a bed, breakfast, and transportation to the trailhead. If you come by bus or plane, they can often pick you up with prior arrangements. They accept mail drops of gear and fuel can also be mailed there (check with them to see if they carry your type of fuel in stock). If you are sectioning, you can leave a car at the park at the lot across from the visitor center. Like Kathadin, there is an approach trail to the summit of Springer Mt where the AT officially starts. There are also easier ways to summit Springer, such as taking a drive up to a parking lot just a mile shy of the summit and starting there (and I met hikers that did do just that). But I believe that a true approach of hiking to the starting point of your grand AT adventure puts you right into the spirit of the hike and gets it off on a good footing. Besides, although the stairs are steep, the route by the falls is awesome.

Amicalola Falls

You feel like you have already accomplished something by hiking to it rather than taking an "easy" way to the initial start. Its a good morale booster. It gives you a good feeling when, at the end of a tiring day (or rainy day as I had), you can stand on Springer, look at the first White Blaze, and say, "Here I am. The first white blaze of my long trek northward. And I'm ready to do it!"

The hike up the Approach Trail will take you all day also, but it is certainly not the rigorous ascent that one faces SOBO at Katahdin. Nor is there any descent to speak of. You will still be sore, granted. But it is much easier in the woods of Georgia, without weather extremes and hazards. It's a gentler way to start. But still interesting and full of excitement, to be sure.

Other posts in the series:

Northbound vs Southbound Part II The Social Aspects

Northbound vs Southbound Part III Outfitters and Resupply