The Colorado Trail – Part Two – Acclimating to the Altitude

(This is a series of blogs related to a thru hike of the Colorado Trail – Durango to Denver, August 20-September 26, 2017)

I am an eastern dweller at approx. 800 feet elevation. And I am going to spend day two of my hike heading northbound on the Colorado Trail climbing to 12,000 feet. BIG difference in elevation for sure. And one I need to prep for, even as I prep for other parts of my hike gear wise, mail drop wise, etc.

So what do you do to avoid the dreaded AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness? This is a very real and potentially life threatening illness. It can begin as a headache and rapidly spread to nausea, vomiting, and other more potent symptoms.  Just this past summer a young woman died of it in Colorado. It is not something to take lightly. So whether you are planning to tackle the Colorado Trail as I did, or are considering other destinations such as the PCT, John Muir Trail, Kilimanjaro, etc. one must get ready for the change in altitude. I did a few things to prep for this all important area I know if I didn’t get a handle on it, could ruin my chances for a safe adventure.

I first scanned the Internet for altitude related articles. Some advocated a period of acclimating, that is, going to a midway altitude and adjusting. This I did by spending the first few days in Denver, Estes Park, and I also climbed a bit of the trail up Longs Peak.

The second thing I read was taking gingko biloba two weeks before the hike. This I also did and continued to take it throughout my five week journey.

Fluids is a big deal. Drink, drink, drink. Know the water and streams issue and take extra containers to carry the water you need. There are several “dry” areas on the Colorado Trail – and this I prepared for by asking fellow hikers of water conditions and using any updated info some hikers did provide on my Atlas Guide map app (many thanks to hikers Phoenix and Hippie Longstocking for valuable information on water and campsites along the CT).

The other thing I did was join the Facebook group Altitude Acclimatization. The group offered great advice on what to do. The FILES also contained important information on an altitude medicine to take. At first I wasn’t going to take it, but I decided it was a good idea. The drug Acetazolamide (or Diamox) has been used to treat glaucoma. But in small doses it is very effective in warding off AMS. I was given 125 mg tablets by my doctor. Some say to take more, some less. The dosage that worked for me is the day before beginning my ascent, I took 125 mg AM and PM. I also needed to drink a lot as this drug acts as a diuretic. Be prepared to head for the forests and fields frequently as you will urinate frequently. You keep taking it until you reached maximum altitude. On the Colorado Trail this did not happen for a week when I reached the high point at 13,000 feet. I took it for 10 days then for the last two days went down to half dosage. After about five days of taking the drug I did experience a side effect of some strange tingling in my fingers and the heels of my feet. It did not bother me, but it was noticeable. But the drug worked perfectly, I had no headaches, nausea or other symptoms of AMS.

There are of course physical aspects. Hiking at altitude can make you very short winded. While you may not be having any signs of sickness, you still need to curb your physical output to match your cardiovascular one. I found using my respirations as the guide to how fast I hiked worked well. If my breathing became labored, I slowed it down. If I needed an extra breath, I stopped and allowed my body a quick recoup. I found with this technique that even after a few days, I was able to hike farther without having to pause so frequently. In time I was also hiking quicker. Being in good physical condition beforehand helps speed this process along.  

Once I adapted, I went off the drug, continued to take in water, but had no other issues, even as I hiked between 10-12,000 feet. In time  was able to hike a fairly good pace and keep my breathing also in check.

With some careful prep ahead of time, altitude doesn’t have to be the issue that can ruin your trail experience.

Related Blogs: 

Colorado Trail, Part One - Preparing

The Colorado Trail - Part One - Preparing for the Long Distance Hike

This year I am embarking on a new long distance venture that will take me into high altitude for multiple days and away from the typical eastern US hiking trips I have enjoyed in the past.

My plan is to hike the 486 mile Colorado Trail (CT) that extends from Denver to Durango in the beautiful and wild Rocky Mountains.

Most hikers plan their trip to leave from Waterton Canyon south of Denver and hike southbound, arriving some four to five weeks later at Durango. Typically the main season begins sometime in July and ends in August. For me, since I am starting later in the season and because of possible snow in September at the higher elevations close to Durango, I am hiking northbound to Denver. This necessitates me to do more planning, such as acclimating, watching pack weight for long stretches of resupply in areas, and planning for shorter days at the onset to help me adapt to the high altitude and the stretches of tough climbing.

My planning for this trip began several months ago by joining a Colorado Thru Hiker Facebook Group. This place on social media has been an invaluable tool for the beginning steps needed to do the trail. Much information is shared—from resupply options, to acclimating (of which there is a special Facebook group specifically for that), gear, travel options, and yes, I have even met great trail angels willing to help me out on the trail. The  Colorado Trail Foundation will also email on request a list of shuttlers willing to transport you to towns or trailheads.

A Map App helps with navigation

Once the plans are made, important trail resources are needed. I downloaded the trail app from Atlas Guides (formerly Guthook). I am quite familiar with the map app on my phone, having used it successfully on the Florida Trail. Hikers have also left notes on the app for water resources and waypoints, which allows me to check on water availability late in the season. I also purchased the Colorado Trail Foundation’s data book for the trail. Both resources have proved invaluable for planning purposes. A Trail Foundation can be a wealth of information as to trail conditions – be sure to see if they have a social media group online as well, along with guidebooks and print maps. I have even called the foundation office to ask questions.

Mail Drop Prep

I then spent time gathering gear and also food and supplies for some mail drops. While the scene to the left looks a mess, maildrops give me the option to eat the foods I want while not spending valuable time trying to figure out options at a grocery store. The End to End Colorado Trail guide assists in this kind of planning.   

All these resources together, coupled with information shared from other hikers’ experiences, helps one plan the best they can for a journey into the wilds of the Rockies.

(Note – the above information can be used toward any long distance hiking trail as far as planning such as the use of social media outlets, trail foundations, guidebooks and maps)

Summary of Resources:

The Colorado Trail Foundation

The Colorado Trail End to End Guide

CT App

Review of Shades of Gray, Splashes of Color – Thru Hiking the Colorado Trail

Part II - Acclimating to the Altitude

A Colorado Trail Adventure

Review: Shades of Gray, Splashes of Color - A Thru Hike of the Colorado Trail by Bill Cooke

I was eager to read this account as I had not yet read a thru hiking book on this famed 486 mile trail that spans the length of wild and beautiful Colorado, from north in the San Juan National Forest to Durango. To me, an easterner, the Rockies seem like wild mountains in need of special skills. I had visions of plowing through big snowfields and other major obstacles. But Bill Cooke’s book put to rest a good many fears.

It was great having some intro to the trail, mileage, facts, etc. to start off. Once the hike began, it grabbed my attention and held it throughout.  I liked it too that Bill was honest about how he felt (sometimes he wasn’t well either) and what gear he brought. He didn’t gloss it over but you felt as if you were on the journey, struggling with him, even as his partner obviously had better strength on the trip. But it didn’t bother Bill or get to him. He hiked along anyway and they had a good time despite their different hiking speeds. The account also gave good ideas on trip planning, like the summer thunderstorm issue and resupply points.

 I always like to read accounts of trail magic and trail angels, and they both had their share with folks giving them rides to town or helping out with slackpacking. This gives me assurance that there are people eager and ready to help out in more remote areas. But beyond that, the descriptions of sheer Colorado beauty is enough to send a hiker like me packing up my backpack and heading for the far reaches of the Rockies.

I was also eager to hear about the mountain bikers as I had heard conflicting reports on them. I liked it how Bill worked with the bikers on the trail and not against them. He made friends, and they found themselves equals, sharing the trail rather than getting on each other’s nerves. It made for a better experience.

On the downside, I only wish the map of the trail was bigger so I could see where they were at different places in the book (I’m visual that way). Also the pictures of the flowers in black and white didn’t do them any justice. Color photos would have been great, to be honest.

If you are thinking of doing this trail or just want a good read on a hiking adventure in the Rockies, be sure to pick up this book. It will make you believe you can do it!

More information on the Colorado Trail:

Ordering the book

Colorado Trail Foundation

Colorado Trail End to End Guide

Other reads: Mountains, Madness, and Miracles – 4,-000 Miles on the Appalachian Trail

Alternate Summer Trail Adventure - Part 1 - Sangre de Cristo Wilderness in Colorado

The Sand Ramp Trail wanders from Great Sand Dunes to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains

As I mentioned in my previous blogs, we saw our plans to tackle both the John Muir Trail or the Long Trail scuttled due to health concerns. But we both still liked to backpack and wanted a one to two day adventure during our trip out west this summer. A fellow hiker, Mags with ultralight backpacking, told us of the beautiful and quite underpopulated via hiking standards Sangre de Cristo mountains in southern Colorado. I did some research and decided this might prove a good little trip for us.

But like all trips, they also hold elements of the unexpected. We arrived at the visitor center to inquire about our plans. Mags had told me of the Sand Lakes region, but because of severe drought, the sand was incredibly thick and unpassable for most vehicles. We were unable to reach the normal trailhead and to do the extra miles to get there would be too much for us.  So we looked at an alternate destination and settled on an alpine lake, Medano Lake, nestled beside Mount Herard. I saw pictures of it and thought it looked beautiful. We could take the Sand Ramp trail from Great Sand Dunes National Park out to a forest service road, hike along the road, through seven water crossings, to the trailhead for the lake and camp in its vicinity at a designated campsite - though the ranger told of campsites along the forest service road should we fall short of our goal.

Papa Bliss slogs through the thick sand and no shade

We started at a pretty good time of day - early morning to avoid heat issues, but the trail was all sand and thick sand that rapidly filled our shoes and slowed us to where we had to empty our shoes numerous times. There was little shade either on the Sand Ramp trail, and as our hike continued to slow, the day heated up. I was getting my first taste of true desert hiking with heat, sand and prickly pear cactus, something I had never experienced before. I had hoped to maybe camp at the alpine lake region that night, but it was not to be. Our best hope was to hike as far as we could when we reached the forest service road and get as close to the trailhead for Medano Lake as possible.

Multiple uses for a bear box - a cooking table and a seat combined

Our campsite just before the Medano Trailhead; Papa Bliss hammocks, I tent

Plodding along the road, and over many water crossings, we finally arrived at this pristine campsite just a tenth of a mile shy of the Medano trailhead. We felt satisfied with our 11 mile day, and at an elevation we are not used to. We had a nice time relaxing and glad to have a safe place to store our supplies in the metal bear box, though we saw no bears on the journey.

The trail toward Mt Herard and Medano Lake

 The next morning we were up early to begin our journey to Medano Lake. The trail was not very difficult, a few steep stretches, but as we ascended past 11,000 feet, the altitude was clearly affecting us. I found myself huffing and puffing unnaturally, which was strange, like I couldn't catch my breath. But the scenery was lovely, and we soon arrived to a beautiful lake, quiet scenery and not a soul in sight.

Made it to what snow existed in this region which did not get the snow pack found in northern Colorado

Our goal is reached! Medano Lake, resting at the foot of Mount Herard!

On the way down the mountain, Papa Bliss has quite severe back pain. We had all but decided we would need another overnight on the forest service road as to do a 16 mile day would not be wise. But once on the road hiking back, we ran into a rescue guy out for some four wheeling who was able to take us back a good part of the way down the road. Then a ranger carried us the rest of the way to our car over very thick sandy roads where he almost got stuck.

So a grand adventure in many ways, and my first time overnight backpacking out west.

Part 2 - Our adventure into the backcountry of Yellowstone to our own geyser area!